The common ones: 4C means the washer isn’t filling, 5C or SC that it isn’t draining, Ub, UE or U6 an unbalanced load, Sud too many suds, and LC or LE a leak. Ur isn’t a fault: the washer is rebalancing the load. For a code that isn’t listed, Samsung says to turn the washer off for 2 to 3 minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle.
Looking for one code? The error code lookup finds it as you type.
Samsung washer codes at a glance
| Code | What it means |
|---|---|
| 4C, 1 4C, nF, 4E | Not filling |
| 4C2, 4E2, CE, 14C2, nF1 | Hot and cold hoses swapped |
| 5C, SC, 5E, SE, nd, 1 5C | Not draining |
| OE, 0E, OC, 0C, 1 OC, 1 0C | Too much water (overflow) |
| LC, LE, 1E, 1C, LC1, 1 1C… | Leak or water level sensor |
| UE, Ub, U6, Ur, 1 Ub, 1U6… | Unbalanced load |
| SUd, Sd, 5d, 5Ud, SUdS, 5Ud5 | Too many suds |
| dE, dS, d5, FL, LO, L0… | Door not closed and locked |
| ddC, dC3 | AddWash door open |
| SDC, 5DC | Detergent drawer open |
| E2, bE2, 6E2, BE2, 8E2 | Stuck button |
| PF, 9C1, 9C2, 2E, 3E, 9E1… | Power or voltage problem |
| Cb, C6 | Calibration mode |
| dn | Downloading an update |
| CL | Child Lock drained the tub |
| 3C, E3, 1 3C, AE, AC, 8E… | Other codes (parts and sensors) |
Some codes look alike on the display: 5C and SC, 0E and OE. Samsung lists both forms, and so do we.
What each code means and what to do
Not filling
Water isn’t coming into the washer the way it should.
- Check the hoses: hot to the hot inlet, cold to the cold, neither kinked. Connect the hot hose even if you wash in cold, since the washer may draw some hot water on cycles labeled Cold.
- Open both water valves all the way and leave them open while it runs.
- Check the drain hose: 6 to 8 inches into the drain pipe and not kinked.
- Unplug the washer, or switch off its breaker, for 1 minute, then try a cycle.
- Still nothing? Turn the water off, take the hoses off the back and clean the small inlet filters if they’re full of grit.
Samsung says not to use Flood Safe hoses.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Hot and cold hoses swapped
Very hot water is coming from the cold supply, because the hot and cold hoses are on the wrong inlets.
- Swap them: cold supply to the cold inlet, hot to hot (usually blue to blue, red to red).
This code doesn’t mean the washer needs service.
Not draining
Water isn’t draining out, or not fast enough.
- If you just ran a hot cycle such as Sanitize, wait about an hour for the water to cool.
- Make sure the washer is level.
- Check the drain hose: 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe or sink, held so it can’t slip farther, not sealed airtight, not kinked, 18 to 96 inches high (24 to 35 inches for a sink), and no extension kit.
- On a front loader, clean the pump filter (top loaders don’t have one).
- Start a cycle: it should drain at the beginning.
Don’t remove the screw on the back that holds the drain hose; if the holder is missing, the washer needs service.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Too much water (overflow)
There is too much water in the washer.
- Work through the drain checks for 5C and SC: level the washer, check the drain hose and, on a front loader, clean the pump filter.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Leak or water level sensor
Moisture has been found where it shouldn’t be, or the sensor itself has a problem.
- Look for a leak, even a small one, and fix it.
- Check that the supply and drain hoses behind the washer aren’t kinked.
- Run an empty cycle with no detergent or softener. If suds appear, too much detergent (or a non-HE one) was used: run empty cycles until the suds stop.
If no suds appear and the code continues, Samsung says to request service.
Unbalanced load
The laundry has bunched up on one side of the tub. Ur means the washer is adding water and rebalancing so it can try the spin again; that’s normal and only makes the cycle longer. The other codes mean it couldn’t finish.
- Untangle the laundry and spread it out evenly.
- Close the door and press Start.
On some models dC is a door error instead: check your manual.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Too many suds
The washer found too many suds. It pauses to let them die down, then carries on; the code may flash again at the end as a reminder.
- Use less detergent, and only HE detergent.
This code doesn’t mean the washer needs service.
Door not closed and locked
The washer can’t tell that the door is closed and locked.
- Check the latch, make sure no laundry is caught in the door, and close it firmly.
On some models dC is an unbalanced-load code instead: check your manual. With Child Lock on and water in the tub, the code can show even with no cycle running; the washer drains if the door isn’t closed or Child Lock turned off within 30 seconds. On FlexWash washers, 1dC4 means the rubber button beside the upper washer’s latch is missing: a new button fixes it.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
AddWash door open
The small add-garment door isn’t closed and locked.
- Check that nothing is caught in it and close it until it latches.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Detergent drawer open
The detergent drawer isn’t pushed all the way in.
- Push it in until it clicks.
Stuck button
A button on the control panel seems to be stuck or held down.
- Turn the washer off, then press each button in turn, rocking it back and forth so every edge is free.
On some models BE2 (8E2) is a vibration (MEMS) sensor error instead: check your manual.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Power or voltage problem
The power reaching the washer is irregular. PF means the power went off before the washer shut down: an outage, a pulled plug or a tripped breaker.
- Make sure the washer has its own circuit and isn’t on an extension cord.
On some models 3E is a motor error instead: check your manual.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Calibration mode
Not a fault: the washer is recalibrating how it weighs the load, usually at the end of installation. The drum turns back and forth for 1 to 3 minutes.
- Calibration only works with the washer empty: take everything out and run it again if needed.
Downloading an update
The washer is installing an update, which takes about 15 minutes; the controls don’t respond meanwhile.
- Leave it powered on until it finishes.
If it still shows after 30 minutes with power and Wi-Fi working, Samsung says to request service.
Child Lock drained the tub
On newer models: Child Lock was on, the water level was unsafe and the door was opened, so the washer drained the water.
- Turn the washer off and on again, or turn Child Lock off.
Other codes (parts and sensors)
Codes for a part or sensor: 3E, 3C or E3 motor; AE or AC communication; 8E, BE, 8C or BC vibration (MEMS) sensor; tE or tC temperature sensor; HC, HE or Hr heater; PC or PE clutch; IE, SF or 5F system; Sr or 5r system relay; bE or 6E motor speed sensor; 7E SilverCare; 9C6 to 9C8 circuit and overcurrent.
- Turn the washer off for 2 to 3 minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle.
If the code keeps coming back, Samsung says to request service.
Blinking lights instead of a code
Samsung washers without a display show a fault by blinking a combination of lights. Lights can blink in normal use too, so treat it as a code only when the washer isn’t working normally, such as stopping mid-cycle (Samsung).
| Blinking lights | Means |
|---|---|
| Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High | Not filling |
| Hot & Small, or Hot & Low | Hot and cold hoses swapped |
| Small, or Low | Not draining |
| Tap Cold, Cool, Medium or Mid | Too much water |
| Cold, or Eco Warm | Stuck button |
| Hot, alone or with Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High | Door not closed and locked |
| Hot & Warm | Unbalanced load |
| Self Clean | A reminder to run a Self Clean cycle soon, not a fault |
| Hot & Cold, or Hot & Eco Warm | Motor |
| Warm | Communication |
| Hot & Tap Cold, or Hot & Cool | Vibration (MEMS) sensor |
| Hot & Medium, or Hot & Mid | Heater |
For the last four, and any other combination that comes with a problem: power off for 2 to 3 minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle; if the same lights return, request service (Samsung).
The same code means something else on an LG
Codes aren’t shared between brands. A few that look the same mean different things:
- OE: too much water on a Samsung; not draining on an LG.
- IE: a system error on a Samsung; not filling on an LG.
- SE: not draining on a Samsung; a sensor error on an LG.
- LE: a leak on a Samsung; the drum can’t turn on an LG.
- AE: a communication error on a Samsung; a leak or a drum problem on an LG.
Questions people ask
How do I reset a Samsung washer?
Turn it off for 2 to 3 minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle. That’s Samsung’s step for any code without its own fix. For 4C, it says to unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for 1 minute.
What does 4C mean on a Samsung washer?
Water isn’t coming in properly. Check that the hoses go hot to hot and cold to cold without kinks, open both valves fully, check the drain hose, then cut the power for a minute and try again (Samsung).
What does SC or 5C mean on a Samsung washer?
It isn’t draining. Level the washer, check the drain hose’s height and fit, and on a front loader clean the pump filter (Samsung).
What does Ur mean on a Samsung washer?
The load is unbalanced and the washer is adding water and rebalancing to try the spin again. It’s not a fault; the cycle just takes longer (Samsung).
What does Sud mean on a Samsung washer?
Too many suds, from too much detergent or a non-HE one. The washer waits for them to settle and then carries on (Samsung).
Sources
- Samsung US support, Samsung washing machine information and error codes: every code, meaning and fix on this page, the blinking-light combinations, and the basic steps for unlisted codes.
- Samsung US support, Samsung washing machine will not drain: the drain checks for 5C, SC and OE.